Downloads, Printers, Filaments and Paints for 3D work
Tools For 3D Modeling & Printing
The information on this page is taken from my personal experience and any comments and suggestions are entirely my opinion. Consider this a starting point, but please research all of this for yourself to have a good, complete base to work from.
These are websites with the tools I use most often when working with 3D projects. If it's difficult to find the actual download button on some of these, sorry, I didn't create the pages. HOWEVER, I did successfully download a copy from each, so—at least when I tried them— they had the programs on them.
Meshmixer - FREE - Probably the most important program you'll need in creating 3D models and getting them ready to slice.
UltiMaker Cura - FREE - In my opinion (and probably opinion the majority doing 3D printing) the best program for slicing your 3D model to print. (Slicing breaks the 3D model into layers so the 3D printer knows where to print)
Blender - FREE - One of the leaders in creating 3D models. It has an extremely difficult learning curve. I mostly use it to open and convert a variety of 3D file types. BUT, if you can master it, the program has pretty much everything you need.
Sculptris - FREE - A wonderful program that lets you mold your model like a lump (sphere) of clay. Easy learning curve and best controls I've found. HOWEVER, no UNDO. Save often or you'll be doing a lot of rework.
Rhinoceros (3D) - EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE - You need some form of CAD program to help with creating the objects that are more shaped than hand molded. I use a 20+ year old version of the program. I'd suggest finding an alternative. I believe Blender can handle this, too, but again, I am very unfamiliar with Blender.
Alternatives to Rhinoceros (3D) - SOME FREE - This page list a few options for alternatives to Rhinoceros. A Google search might find better options. And, as I said—look into Blender—I believe it may do what Rhinoceros does and it's free.
Printers and Filament I started with the Anycubic - Mega Zero. It's a cheap printer that does an okay job. I'd recommend one of the following printers, but if you want a fair, cheap 3D printer to learn on, this printer will probably be a good one to play with.
Ender-3 Pro - This was my first good 3D printer. It has a consistantly nice, quality print. However, the bed does require leveling after several prints. It has manual leveling (not really that difficult). Also, it uses a Bowden Drive. I highly recommend using the Sprite conversion kit to turn it into a Direct Drive. My print nozzle clogged on a reglar basis when I used the original Bowden Drive. Clearing a clog from the Bowden setup can sometimes be difficult/problematic. I've been using Direct Drive for almost a year (this was written 6/28/2023) and have had one clog that was extremely easy to clean. There are PROs and CONs to both drives, but I really like the Direct Drive.
Sprite Extruder Pro Kit - converts your Ender-3 Pro into a Direct Drive printer.
Direct Drive vs. Bowden Extruders - a nice page explainting the difference and comparing the two.
Anycubic Kobra - I have been using the Kobra for about a year. It's a workhorse and is becoming my favorite. The qualiy of print, though maybe a tad less than the Ender-3Pro, is nice and it has printed everything I've thrown at it. It is already a Direct Drive printer, so no need to convert it. It has auto bed leveling. You still have to make minor adjustments, but it's a lot easier and accurate than manual leveling.
The Ender-3 Pro and the Anycubic Kobra both come with a Magnetic Bed/Platform. Don't let anyone talk you into anything different.
I print exclusively with PLA (Polylactic acid) - a type of plastic derived from organic sources like corn starch or sugar cane. It's typically considered a good plastic for beginners. As far as I'm concerned, for printing my models, I'm happy with it.
Overture Filaments (PLA) - I've only printed PLA from a few companies, but I've come to like Overture. Their filaments tend to give a cleaner print and—so far— I haven't encountered any tangling of the filament like I have with others. A tangled filament will destroy a print job. And a plus, Overture filaments tend to be very cost competitive to other filaments.
Overture has it's regular filament and it's Professional. Each has its good and its bad. Professional is a lot stronger. They say 5x stronger, but I'm convinced it's even better than that. HOWEVER, that means the supports are also 5 times stronger. Getting supports off of a print is a bit more difficult with the Professional. BUT, the professional print is less likely to break while you're removing the supports. The decision is up to you, but I'd recommend trying both.
Although you can buy your printes and filament from the manufacturers, I typically purchase mine from Amazon. Prices tend to be competitive, with Prime I get free shipping, and they have a pretty good customer service.
This really is probably about the extent of what I can do to help you get started, however, if you would like to cantact me to ask questions or make comments, I'd love to hear from you:
steven@grimtrojan.com
Sculptris - FREE - A wonderful program that lets you mold your model like a lump (sphere) of clay. Easy learning curve and best controls I've found. HOWEVER, no UNDO. Save often or you'll be doing a lot of rework.
Rhinoceros (3D) - EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE - You need some form of CAD program to help with creating the objects that are more shaped than hand molded. I use a 20+ year old version of the program. I'd suggest finding an alternative. I believe Blender can handle this, too, but again, I am very unfamiliar with Blender.
Alternatives to Rhinoceros (3D) - SOME FREE - This page list a few options for alternatives to Rhinoceros. A Google search might find better options. And, as I said—look into Blender—I believe it may do what Rhinoceros does and it's free.
Printers and Filament I started with the Anycubic - Mega Zero. It's a cheap printer that does an okay job. I'd recommend one of the following printers, but if you want a fair, cheap 3D printer to learn on, this printer will probably be a good one to play with.
Ender-3 Pro - This was my first good 3D printer. It has a consistantly nice, quality print. However, the bed does require leveling after several prints. It has manual leveling (not really that difficult). Also, it uses a Bowden Drive. I highly recommend using the Sprite conversion kit to turn it into a Direct Drive. My print nozzle clogged on a reglar basis when I used the original Bowden Drive. Clearing a clog from the Bowden setup can sometimes be difficult/problematic. I've been using Direct Drive for almost a year (this was written 6/28/2023) and have had one clog that was extremely easy to clean. There are PROs and CONs to both drives, but I really like the Direct Drive.
Sprite Extruder Pro Kit - converts your Ender-3 Pro into a Direct Drive printer.
Direct Drive vs. Bowden Extruders - a nice page explainting the difference and comparing the two.
Anycubic Kobra - I have been using the Kobra for about a year. It's a workhorse and is becoming my favorite. The qualiy of print, though maybe a tad less than the Ender-3Pro, is nice and it has printed everything I've thrown at it. It is already a Direct Drive printer, so no need to convert it. It has auto bed leveling. You still have to make minor adjustments, but it's a lot easier and accurate than manual leveling.
The Ender-3 Pro and the Anycubic Kobra both come with a Magnetic Bed/Platform. Don't let anyone talk you into anything different.
I print exclusively with PLA (Polylactic acid) - a type of plastic derived from organic sources like corn starch or sugar cane. It's typically considered a good plastic for beginners. As far as I'm concerned, for printing my models, I'm happy with it.
Overture Filaments (PLA) - I've only printed PLA from a few companies, but I've come to like Overture. Their filaments tend to give a cleaner print and—so far— I haven't encountered any tangling of the filament like I have with others. A tangled filament will destroy a print job. And a plus, Overture filaments tend to be very cost competitive to other filaments.
Overture has it's regular filament and it's Professional. Each has its good and its bad. Professional is a lot stronger. They say 5x stronger, but I'm convinced it's even better than that. HOWEVER, that means the supports are also 5 times stronger. Getting supports off of a print is a bit more difficult with the Professional. BUT, the professional print is less likely to break while you're removing the supports. The decision is up to you, but I'd recommend trying both.
Although you can buy your printes and filament from the manufacturers, I typically purchase mine from Amazon. Prices tend to be competitive, with Prime I get free shipping, and they have a pretty good customer service.
Here's what I paint with
Just in case you were wondering what paint works well with 3D prints, this is what I use. I'm not promoting Walmart or the paint brands—there are many places you can get good paint—but I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart. HOWEVER, some paints cover better than others and you may find you have to let the paint dry and repaint it several times before you get the rich color you want. More expensive paint MIGHT cover better.
You always have to give the prints a good coat of primer. I typically use the Rust-Oleum 2X Paint+Primer. I suspect any primer will work, but this is what I like. And, if you're just doing one color, you're done after spraying. AND I like to use Matte paint. It usually takes the other paints better.
Finally, you want to hit the piece with a clear coat of paint. I prefer gloss or simi-gloss, but satin or matte would work just as well. Not only does it make the paint seem to smooth out, it also helps secure against the paint scratching off. Again, I get mine at Walmart. Again, Rust-Oleum 2X is my favorite, but you do you.
This really is probably about the extent of what I can do to help you get started, however, if you would like to cantact me to ask questions or make comments, I'd love to hear from you:
steven@grimtrojan.com